Maison Margiela is shifting its focus toward China with a large-scale project that goes far beyond a traditional runway. For the first time, the house has staged a show outside Paris, choosing Shanghai as the starting point.
Presented on April 1 during Shanghai Fashion Week, the Autumn/Winter 2026/27 collection combined ready-to-wear with the Artisanal line. Some of the pieces shown are not intended for production, reinforcing the brand’s habitual approach to fashion as concept rather than pure commerce.
Under the direction of Glenn Martens, the collection revisited core house codes. The signature white bianchetto, layered fabrics, reconstructed garments, and masked anonymity all returned, but with a sharper, more contemporary edge.
The Shanghai show is only one part of a larger strategy. The brand has launched a traveling format across China titled Maison Margiela/Folders. Over twelve days, exhibitions and activations will unfold in multiple cities, including Beijing, Chengdu, and Shenzhen.
Each location focuses on a specific element of the brand’s identity. In Beijing, the exhibition centers on masks and anonymity. Chengdu explores the cult status of the Tabi shoe. Shenzhen turns attention to the atelier itself, offering a closer look at the making process.
Back in Shanghai, the experience begins on Yan Dang Road, where an open-air exhibition introduces visitors to the house’s visual language. The format feels deliberately accessible. Most events are open to the public, without the need for invitations, echoing the brand’s early ideas about openness and engagement.
Staff dressed in Margiela’s iconic white coats guide visitors through the installations, explaining the philosophy behind the garments. This direct interaction shifts the experience from passive viewing to something more immersive.
For Martens, the move reflects a broader intention. The brand entered the Chinese market in 2019, but this scope feels like a more considered step. It’s not just about visibility, but about building a dialogue with a new audience.
Instead of a single show, the house creates a sequence of moments. Fashion becomes exhibition, movement, and conversation at the same time.
In this context, China is not just a market. It becomes a stage where the identity of Maison Margiela is reinterpreted, expanded, and made visible in a new way.